My journal of 6 backpacking weeks.



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I know this is a little late, but I'm trying to spell out my handprinted journal. More to come later.

Fiji 30.April

I arrived Fiji in the late afternoon, and was a little worried because Fiji was a totally new place for me, and absolutely everybody were black and looked scary. People often look scary when you are a long way from home and all alone. While waiting to get through customs, I saw one single guy who separated from the rest of the crowd. A Canadian who carried a backpack (I could tell he was a Canadian from the flag on his backpack). When he needed to borrow a pen, we started talking, and decided to go to some hostel together, since this place didn't look safe at all.

We met loads of people trying to convince us their place was the best, but I had been told that "Hotel Kennedy" in Nadi was supposed to be good, and we went there. The taxi driver ripped us of by charging us F$10 for the short trip from the airport to the hostel (later we found out the price should be F$3), but at least we made it there.

At Hotel Kennedy we were met by a guy behind a glass shield, showing absolutely no affection. Not a smile, no hello, no nothing. On the outside of the shield was a big guy just staring at us. I was scared. The guy behind the shield shoved a piece of paper out to us, and pointed with a pen - showing us where to sign and what to pay without saying anything out loud. F$15 a night didn't sound to bad.

When the backpacks were safe in the dormroom, we decided we'd go and grab a beer from the bar and see what people stayed here. The bar was open alright, but there were nobody else around. We bought a beer and sat down, talking about how strange this place was. When we bought the second beer (F$2.50), we asked where the other guests were and the answere was; there might be some arriving tomorrow. In other words we were the only ones there.

This was explained to us by a taxi driver the next day. After the last disturbances in Fiji back in January, the tourist industry had been down 60%, and we could really feel it. Everybody wanted to sell us different things and trips, discounted in everyway, and often more than 50%. We spent a day in Nadi (the city closest to the airport) just to decide what to do. The next night in "Hotel Kennedy" more people arrived, and we were suddenly 6 people staying there. A real crowd. We also discovered that we had been ripped of the first night. A different person was behind the counter, and I only payed F$12. I asked what the rent was, and she was like; 12 bucks, didn't I give you the right change?? "yeah, I just wanted to check.."

We left for "The coral coast" and a place called "Beach House" early the next day. It was time to get away from Nadi city.

May 1st

We got on a bus at the bus terminal in Nadi to "Beach House" - F$5, and I remember saying; How far can it be, it's only five bucks. We arrived almost 3 hours later, after the most annoying bus ride ever. Bumpy, noisy, low flying in a bus from the early sixties, and a bunch of close calls when overtaking other cars is words that springs to mind.

"The Beach House" was a great place. Alot more people stayed there, and the staff (from New Zealand) was almost to friendly. The rent for a 4-bed dorm was F$16, but it was really nice. A few ants on the dormfloor, but nothing to bad. About 20 people stayed at the hostel, and looked like one happy family.

The beach wasn't to good, but the snorkling, the beach volleyball and the scones for tea-time was great. Also the late night drinking sessions were really nice. I ended up staying at the beach house for 3 nights, just doing nothing.

I woke up the forth day, just a quarter before they stopped serving breakfast, and raced down to the dining area. I was reading some flyers, and my Lonely planet guide, trying to decide where to go next, when Becky asked me where I was going. The time was just passed 10am. I told her to Mana or Wayalailai, and she was like, go to Wayalailai with me. The bus leaves in 25 minutes. "Uhm.. I was thinking about tomorrow.." No common, I don't want to leave alone. So, in 25 minutes I; eat my breakfast, packed my bag, said bye to Mike -the Canadian, paid my bill at the reception, and missed the bus. It passed when we were 25 meters from the road. I was not on Fiji-time, as everything else on Fiji is. - things happens whenever they happen. no rush, no worries.

After waiting for the next bus for half an hour in the burning sun (35 degrees is HOT) we decided to get a cab together with a Aussie couple who also missed the bus. We agreed with the cabdriver to go back to Nadi for F$80, which was a good price for a 2 hour taxi ride, and me and Becky got another cab to Lautoka, where we had to get the boat from. Another F$30. As we got into the cab and start to drive, Becky is like; shit, our boat leaves now..

We got to the harbour just above an hour to late, and the boat had left. After stralling along the harbour we ask the boatie of the "safest" looking boat if he can take us out to Wayalailai. Another F$40 each, and we were on our way out to Wayalailai. Oh happy day. The sea got a little rough, and when the motor stopped just about half way on our 2 hour trip, the waves splashed water into the boat from the back. None of the crew-family seemed to mind, so I tried to look happy and joke about it. The youngest kid started pouring water out of the boat with a small bucket, just as the old dude got the motor running again. I remember thinking - The water is about 30 degrees, we'll be alright.

When we got to Wayalailai we were met by the village people - not the band from ages ago, but real Fijians living on the island. We had booked dormrooms (F$30 incl. all meals - cheap), but it turned out they were double booked, and we got the choice of tents or a double room. We shared a king size bed with a huge mosquito net for the next 3 days. - No comments.

Our first impression of the island was the horrible food we were served for dinner just 20 minutes after we arrived. It consisted of watery rice, some meat that tasted like shit, and a small string of cocoanut. The portions were tiny, and I didn't get full once. We spent the afternoon drinking and making new friends with alot of people, and around 11pm we called it a night, and went to bed. It was a good first day at Wayalailai.

May 4th

What can I say? I'll be damned. We were awakened by a rooster just before 5am. I was dead tired, and slept some more while Becky went to get a cold morning shower before breakfast at 7am. The next thing I know, she is sitting on my back, tickling my face with her wet hair. When I start to put my had underneath the pillow, she smashes it against my head, and we got ourself a good'ol pillow fight. We almost missed brekkie, but on the other hand, it tasted pretty bad, so I wouldn't mind if we just stayed in bed fighting :D

When we were finished eating, I went to see the dive instructor to find out if there was any chance of doing the advanced dive course on the island. He informed me that it was F$280, and that the course started in 45 minutes. Quick decisions and I was in the water doing my first deep dive within an hour.

We went to a place called "pinnacle" just outside Wayalailai. It is a bummy which reaches up from around 32-33 meters, and the depth is about 12 meters on the top of it. I guess the diameter was about approximately 10-15 meters. The plan was to do a dive to 30 meters for 12 minutes, which is within the tables. We got into the water at 10:40, and did a free decent to 12 meters, where we made sure everything was ok before we started to swim around the bummy on our way down to the bottom.

We saw alot of small fish on our way down together with corals and other strange colored things. I got down to 31,7 meters, and since my chest was against the sand bottom, I couldn't get any deeper. I didn't feel the slightest influence of nitrogen narcosis, but I did my best. The visibility were awesome, between 15 and 20 meters. After almost 14 minutes on the bottom..we got a little carried away when Steffy (divemaster) peeled an egg down at 30 meters. It was insane to see how she just removed the shell, and the uncooked egg just stayed together because of the increased pressure at that depth. It was weird. We started our accent, and got to the surface again 25 minutes after we went in. I even had air left, but since we were well outside the tables already, we didn't really have a choice whether to get out of the water or not.

Did I forget to tell about the temperatures? The temp on the surface was 35+ degrees, on the surface 31 degrees, and at 31 meters it was 29 incredible degrees. I'm in LOVE. That was my 16th dive.

Back on the beach we spent some time playing beachvolley, and had alot of fun. Jane did barely move, and claimed to save energy for the big revange game tomorrow. I'm not to sure about that. She was cute though.

Just after lunch we did a navigation dive, which was fun enough. We almost got lost, but made it back with a good porsion luck. Small fish, sand and muddy water (8-10m visibility) are good reference words.

Guess what, we played more volleyball, and lazed around on the beach until the sun went down around 6pm. Then we went up to the "bar", had some beers and played cards. again, and again. It felt like we drank until forever, but we went to bed around 12pm. Dead tired.

May 5th.

Once again I was awakened by becky, sitting on my back, tickling me and doing whatever it takes to get me awake. It's 0645am, and I feel like sleeping. At least we got cornflakes for breakfast. Not to much, but some, and I loved it. It didn't taste anything like cornflakes in Australia or Norway, but whatthehell, it looked good. Served with hot milk. Yam, I actually liked it.

The perfect start of a day that should prove to be the day of my first cave dive. It was quite interesting, but I didn't like the feeling of being inside a narrow cave at 15 meters depth. I guess it was to small or something. I just had a look at the "top" of it, saw the plants and fish up there where there was some light, and then breathed out, and sank slowly down to the entrance again, had a look at the fish there, and then swam out. I guess the cave was something like 3-4 meter in diameter, with a hight of 4 meters or something. I just floated up to the top, and really struggled not to touch the walls. As I said, I didn't like it to much.

We did a swim through, saw a white tip shark of approximately 2.5m length, and surfaced again. My buddy was out of air, but I had 90 bars left. My breathing is getting more controlled, which is about time :D

When I got back to the island I noticed that there is no way of calling to the mainland or to other nations. Today is my mothers birthday, and I really wanted to call back home and wish her a happy birthday, but I couldn't. They couldn't even let me send a postcard since there is no post terminal in the area. shitty.

Becky left for the mainland today. She had to get back and get a flight to New Zealand together with another girl she was traveling together with. I hated it, since we had much fun together and had spent almost a week together. The big double room felt empty, and I knew I had to move into a dorm some day :>
Just not today.
posted by Marius at 10:01 PM

Fiji

A quick update, I'll get back with the facts later. Fiji is beautiful, but everything is in Fiji - time, which means; noon Fiji-time could be 4pm, and nobody would think that is a little late, if you have a meeting. Anyways, Phones and other communications is really expensive and difficult to get ahold of. I'll be leaving Fiji tonight at 10pm, Next destination is Hollywood, LA. I think I'll do good with the other stars over there. I haven't got the time to respond to e-mails. $20/hour internet is far off.. I'll get back to the Fiji details later, when I can find a cheaper place to write from, hopefully in LA, but maybe I'll do it when I get back to Trondheim, Norway. Home sweet home. I'll arrive in the evening, 2230 on the 15th of may. I miss a desent bed.

to come; 2 weeks on Islands without everything. Electricity? Warm water? Enough food? It was alot of fun, even though the constant hunger really annoyed me. I also did my advanced dive course. I've been spear-fishing, cave diving and deepdiving down to 32 meters depth. All fun. Hollywood here I come. Later.
posted by Marius at 1:20 PM

That last post was quite confusing, hey? Well, the thing is I was waiting for the office to open, and for my breakfast to be ready. It was 730am, and I had been drinking for a while. *excuses,excuses* Anyways, I found out that the private property, which to me seemed like a perfect lawn, was the back lawn of the police station. I set a personal best in getting properly dressed, and I'm still facinated by the strong strobe light the cops have in the police cars. They are really effective. We found another park with a little bit more privacy, and it was a good night. The people in the backpacker just laught when I arrived in a taxi, and told my story. Cairns is not that a big city, but I have no idea where I took the taxi from. I'm not really good at finding my way home at times.

I don't remember if I mentioned it or not, but I bought a didgeridoo yesterday. I can play it a little, but the circular breathing is still a bit to go. I can't wait to get home and learn it. Should be heeps fun for me, and torture for the neightbours. I also bought some gifts, but I had to limit myself due to being broke, and the fact that I have to carry everything to Fiji, since the stupid post office is closed today, and I leave Australia tomorrow. Yay, for planing.

I guess today is going to be a quiet and relaxed day. I woke up around noon, still dead tired, but I had so much to do that I just had to get out of bed. Since I have no idea what to expect at Fiji, I prepared for the worst. For the first time, I'm now the proud owner of a rain poncho, a MagLite, a Swiss armyknife, and a money belt. Fiji is supposed to be a little bit more unsecure than Australia, and I try my best to be prepared. I've also stocked up with battery's for my walkman and the MagLite, 14 battery's should last a while.

Since I still lack skinn under my right bigtoe, I have bought antiseptic cream and plasters to last me almost 10 days. I hope the wound have healed until then.

Since Cairns is one of the few places where I can get my digcam emptied, I was supposed to empty both my 64mb cards. To get the second card as full as possible I waited until today, but when I showed up at the store at 3pm, they had already been closed for 3 hours. I'll just have to try again in Fiji. I'm such a stupid boy at times.

Today have been another to fucking hot day, and I don't have to move to get all sweaty, nice huh? It makes me feel really attractive when I can feel the sweat running down my back. Yuck. I watched the temperature gaiger on my way home this morning. The temperature was 31 degrees before the sun got up. How insane is that? It hasn't gotten any cooler during the day either. I'm babbeling, and need to get back to the hostel. Dinner awaits. The night will be spent planing tomorrow. I have no idea when the flight leaves, and I need to pack. I'll write from Fiji if there are any internet access-points. Take pleassure in the details and be a happier being.
posted by Marius at 5:55 PM

Cairns 27th April.

Ok, this have been a most unusual night. It started off with me trying to meet up with Geneviev, but I never found her. Instead I started drinking together with a bloke from LA, which happend to have a bottle of scotch in his pocket. I bought Coke, and we had a good time. While waiting in line to buy another coke, a girl came up to me, asking if I found her pretty. I was like, yes, why, yes of course. The next thing I know, we were making out bigtimes, and I felt good. As we finished off makingout, I ordered the cokes, and turned around again, and she was gone. Well, it was a good thing. I kept drinking with the LA-dude. A little later, I went down to the dance/trance place in the celler. It was kewl, and I danced alot. One of the girls was really kewl, and I danced less innocent. We had a good time, but as I came back from talking to some norwegian guy, she was gone. No worries, I kept partying, and had a good time. Around 4am, I got really fed up with dancing, and desided to go out and have some food. As I got out and grabbed a pizza, I saw a sweet girl sitting on a bench together with another couple. I walked up to them, and asked if they had had a good night. She was abit drunk, but we had fun. Her friend and her boyfriend left, and told her to come at the same time. We kept talking (about how she was going to win the "fake orgasm" contest tomorrow, and the next thing I know we were making out in every possible way. She was nice looking, and had a tattoo on her lower stommack (spelling??!). Anyways, after a while she left with her friends, and I started walking home to the backpacker. Just 50 meters up the road, I met a girl and a older guy. She was all, "please save me from him", so I did what I had to do to keep him away. (put my arm around her), and he left. Things continued on and I was really surprised that the cops cared if we were on private property or not. Weird & wild. As she walked home, I decided I would walk back to the backpacker, but after 7-8 blocks, without track of any backpacker, I really gave up, and called a cab. I was out of course by several hundred meters, and in wrong direction. I got back to "calypso inn" just in time to pay for another days rent and have breakkie, at 730am. I wonder when I will get up and do something tomorrow. That was what I would call a good night. And not to mention, Fun night.
posted by Marius at 7:21 AM

Cairns 26th April.

A Premier Motor Coach brought me all the way from Townsville, via Mission Beach - fruitpicking, rafting and beautifull beaches, via Tully - Australias wettest town with more than 6m rainfall each year, via Innisfalls - fruit picking heaven. Bananas, Avacados, Coconuts etc. to Cairns. I arrived Cairns at 0730pm, and went directly to the "Calypso inn" where I had booked a dormroom. I was supposed to meet up with Geneviev from French speaking Canada, but she had left the hostel the same morning. Sad, but I had a good night anyway. I had a couple of beer in the bar, got to know some english people, and had a good laugh. I also spent an hour cleaning my wound underneath my big toe. It looks funny, but still hurts pretty much, and I can't walk on it. I bought some antiseptic cream to put on and sterile, waterproof plaster. The wound smell like shit, but I suspect it is becouse of the antiseptic liquid I put on yesterday. The wound looks healthy, and I hope I don't have to go to a doctor with it. I don't think I trust the doc's in Fiji, you never know what they might do.

27th April.
I just spent the day until now doing absolutely nothing. I've been wandering around looking at souvernirs and shit to bring home, but most of it is expensive. I have desided to buy a didgeridoo for myself, and learn to play it. It should be great fun. I also got a mail from Geneviev, she had changed hostel just to confuse me, and wanted to meet up tonight outside the Wool sheed, the most popular party place in Cairns. It should be great fun! I really wanted to meet her again before I leave Australia. I also bought a cd called "Cafe del Mar", which I heard the first time when Ari played it down in Byron Bay. I really enjoy it.

Kewl, I just read Norwegian news for the first time in 2 months or something, and alot of things have been happening. The absolutely coolest thing is that Camilla from www.wallflower.nu has been interviewed at vg.no, as "Norwegian net-babe". I've been reading her site for a year and a half now, and it is really fun at times. I like the way they refer to stileproject.com as "bizzar porn-site". Stileproject is more about shocking and making people think, than about porn. And you never know what to expect when you enter a link, either bizzar warpics, dwarfs having sex, beautiful girls or just other bizzar pictures. it's good, go check it out.

I guess I forgot to mention how bloody hot it is up here in Cairns. Last night was "avereage" according to locals, but the temperature was never belove 30 degrees during the night, and the humidity is fucking awsome - close to 100%. During the daytime the temperature is between 30 and 35 degrees, which is way to much for me. I just sit in the shadow, and I can feel how the heat is making me sweat. Walking around is even worse, but it has to be done. I guess it is a good way to loose weight, but I don't really need to loose any more weight now. My backpack could use a little weight reduction though. I think it is close to 30kg, and I have to get it down to 20kg till sunday. I have no idea how to do that, what to throw away and what to keep. I don't even have that much stuff. I think it might be my invisible powertools which adds up the weight.. uhm.. I'm off to do nothing, and heeps of it. Till next time, take care!
posted by Marius at 7:03 AM

Yongala 25th April.

I got up at 0530am, had a shower, a quick brekkie, and went down to the harbour where the diveboat was to pick me up. The wether was not to good, overcast, wind and light rain. I kept thinking positive thoughts, in hope of the clouds to go away. As we entered the diveboat we got a quick morning tea, with some fruit. A great start of the day, even though I felt seasick after 20 minutes aboard. The "Yongala" wreck is located a 3 hour boattrip out from the australian coast (@18knots), and the sea was kind of rough with up to 2.5 - 3 meter high waves. I didn't, but a few others really got to experience throwing up during a long ride.

The "S.S Yongala" was one of the finest ships to sail the Australian coast. She carried both people and cargo from Perth and all the way up to Cairns. She was buildt in 1903 in England, and was only 7 years old when she sank in 1911. It is not known to this day why she sank, but all 122 persons aboard was killed, and human remains can still be seen in the wreck. "Yongala" was 120 meters long, and about 15 meters high, without the hight of the masts. The wreck was accidentially found in 1958, and has become one of the absolute finest divesites in the world since the wreck is located on sand bottom, without any reef around. Since the wreck itself is the only reef in a 10mile radius, alot of fish and coral has settled down in and around the wreck. Sharks, turtles, snakes, clownfish, stonefish (one of the most venous fishes in the world), alot of small reef fish with amazing colors, I even saw a giant fish, almost 3.5 m long, and really fat. I was told it's weight was about 1 tonne.

Just to top it of, the dive was excelent. The decent to 25 meters went very well, and it was not to different from diving to 17 meters, which was the deepest I had been earlier. Strong current made us swim against the current first, then drift back as we had 120 bars left in the tank. Since the dive was so deep, 2 security stops was needed on the way up. First 2 minutes @ 10 meters, then 3 minutes @ 5 meters. Becouse of the current and the buoiancy, we had to hold on to a ankerline to stay at the desired level during the stops.

We were diving with 3mm wetsuit, which has just about no buoiancy at depths deeper than 5 meters. To be able to keep neutral buoiancy at the bottom, we had to bring less weight than usually, causing us to have a incredible buoiancy at the surface. This forced us to drag ourselfs down to the bottom "climbing" the ankerline. Another new experience.

I had to have a guide on the first dive, since I only had 13 dives previously and no advanced course (which is usually required for depths deeper than 18meters). It was really nice, and I relaxed Immediately, and just enjoyed the dive to the fullest. I rented a dive computer, since the wreck had to be multilevel dive to complete. This helped me alot, since I didn't have to think about dive tables and shit like that. The first dive I had a maximum depth of 25 meters, and stayed down there for 39 minutes. I don't have a clue of how I did that, since I have never EVER been close to using so little air before. Of the group of 10 people, I was the third last one to run out of air, and most of the other ones was either advanced divers or rescue/divemasters. Mark, my buddy from England with rescue diver certification, made me feel safer and more relaxed also. Incredible good dive.

The second dive was on the other end of the wreck. I went down together with Mark, and we just swam up in one direction until we had 120 bars, and then swam back against the ankerchain. Once again we saw alot of kewl shit I haven't seen before, and it was all good. We saw a shark swimming below us, in the outher end of our visabillity, but I couldn't identify it. There are supposed to be quite a few different kinds of sharks living around the wreck, most of them are sharks which would be dangerous if provoced, or if people would swim into their terretory, but they are not to keen on attacking divers. It was an awfull sight, which i'm not going to forget the first couple of days. We stayed down for 35 minutes @ 22.4 meters maximum depth, which wasn't quite as good as the first dive, but good anyway considering my excitement when we saw the shark and giant fish. At one point I was surrounded with a hughe steam of reef fish of the size of 20x20 cm. approximately. It was awsome, and they just swam around looking at me. Love.

I was dead tired after the two dives, and the 3hour boat trip back to Magnetic Island was a long ride. When I got back to "Maggies" hostel, there was a note on my dorm door. "Marius, there is a surprise for you in room 28". How excelent didn't that sound? I met Pia and Jeniffer in room 28, two canadian girls I met at Great Keppel Island. It was alot of fun, and we stayed up most of the night. Jeniffer went to bed around 2am, and me and Pia just hung out, playing pool and fooling around. Heeps fun to meet them again, and sad that I had to leave the next morning. I think I will have to get my ass up to Cairns to get my flight to Fiji the 29th.

I will meet up with Geneviev and Christine, the two french canadian girls I met at Frasier Island, up in Cairns before I leave. It is always fun to hear what people have been up to the last couple of weeks. I also have to find some suitable gifts to bring back to Norway, since Cairns will be my last stop in Australia. Sad, cause I don't want to leave.

I have heard rumors of violence in parts of Fiji lately, so I thought I had to check it before I went there. I tried calling the Fijian embassy in Australia, but nobody answered, so I asked at a travel agency instead. They could inform me that it was absolutely safe to go there, just stay away from a couple of the small islands on the east coast. I'm not planning on going there anyway, so that shouldn't be a problem.

Hmm.. I didn't tell about how fucking annoying it is to walk around without skin underneath my big toe. Well, it is. The diving went along without to much pain, but walking around with a backpack of almost 30kilos + my small backpack full of cameras, books and shit, is not a pleasant experience. I bought some desinfection cream and a lot of plasters and bandages to put on, which will hopefully help a little. I'm looking forward to getting on the bus to Cairns. Townsville is a dull place anyway.

I've been singing "If you could only see her.." for the last couple of hours, and it is really pissing me off that I don't remember any more of the lyrics.

Family/Friends; I'm doing just fine, and can't wait to get to Fiji. I have even booked the first night there at a hostel called "Hotel Kennedy". They even got a courtesy pickup from the airport, so I can't see how that can go wrong. My mobile phone haven't been on alot lately, since it is almost impossible to get it recharged at the hostels. No electricity in the rooms makes it difficult. It probably won't work when I leave Australia anyway. Instead I can be reached on a voice mail number. Leave a message, and I'll call back the next time I use my calling card. Call +61 2 9374 0393 and you will need my inbox number, which is 414451. Just follow the instructions, it shouldn't be to difficult.

I guess that was it, I'm off to find a Premier Motor coach, which should bring me to Cairns if I'm lucky. Take Care people.
posted by Marius at 12:55 PM

Magnetic Island 22th April

When I got on the bus to Townsville, I was seated together with David from Ireland. We started talking about where we were on our way and so on, and after a couple of hours, I decided to go to Magnetic Island instead of Townsville. Townsville was dull anyway, and Magnetic Island is just of the coast. When we got to Townsville transit center I saw a poster shouting about 'Yongala' - a shipwreck which is regarded as one of the 10 best dives in the world. The wreck sank during a storm in the early 19th century, and can be found on 28 meters depth just outside Magnetic Island.

28 meters is a little deep since I only have the PADI open water sertification, but they told me they would take me down there since I've had 13 dives earlier. The wreck is resting on a sand bottom, which makes all the fish seek to the ship to hide and live. The ship is mostly covered by corals, which makes it perfekt for alot of reef fish. I'm really excited about the dive since it is expected to see alot of big fish & sharks. Love is in the air.

Yeah, so I decided to go to Magnetic Island, and we got here around 6pm after a 30 min ferry ride, and started of drinking in the bar and talking to the other people staying here at 'Maggies at the beach' which the backpacker is called. It is almost new, and really good.

That was yesterday. Today I spent a couple of hours at the sun, swimming within the stinger-net, and relaxing. Around noon I rented a mountain bike, and headed for the bush. We (me & David) found a coconut, and opened it with our bare hands. It took close to 40 minutes to get it opened up, but the milk and the coconut itself tasted absolutely delicious. I'll have to do that again some day. Abit frustrating and exhausting, but once you get it open, it's all worth it.

After approximately 3 hours of riding into the bush, I was lucky enough to beat my foot against a sharp rock. The result was no skin under my big toe. After approximately 10 seconds my sandal was full of blood, and it hurt like hell. Fun for the whole family. Since I've been out in the bush a night earlier, I had my first aid kit ready. Eh, no. Maybe next time. I ended up cleaning a plastic bag with spit, and putting it around my bigtoe. It hurt a bit, but not even close to as much as the 2 hour bumpy ride back did.

Back on the hostel I found close to half a kilo sand and mud in the wound, and it was no fun to get it out of there. I put on some antiseptic liquid to make the wound sterile, and it wasn't good either. It hurt like shit, and I was really satisfied when I finally had my bigtoe packed up in plaster. I'm not sure how this is going to inflict with my dive tomorrow, but I'm ready to take some pain to see that wreck.

Tonight will be a calm, early to bed night, since I have to get up around 05am to go diving. It doesn't seem beer works as painkillers. 5 pints and I can still feel the pain when I walk. That is the end of the experiment.

music notice; I just heard Sigurd, an Islandic artist, and he really kickass. I'm going to buy his cd whenever I get back to civilation. Spelling is difficult, especially when you don't have such a nice thing as a dictionary. I might buy one some day.

All this writing, and I think I left out the details of the Island. Magnetic Island is beautifull. Beaches in combination with green palmtrees, rocks and koalas, lizards and snakes. Haven't seen a snake in the wild yet, which might be just as good. The water is full of Stingers from November to May, which makes it impossible to go swimming. A stinger is a jellyfish, just like the norwegian ones, but it burns when in contact with skin. In the period from November to May, the stinger is so dangerous and burning so bad, that people have cardiac arrest within 30 minutes. That makes you dead if you are not lucky, and saved by the hospital.

When we were swimming while on the whitsundays, we could feel small peaces of stingers (broken up into peaces by the storm) burning, and leaving a red mark on wherever it stung. A couple of beaches on Magnetic Island have Stinger net, which blocks the stingers out, and makes it safe to swim.

Weather; The humidity and the temperature is increasing as I travel up the coast. Here at Magnetic Island is it around 30 - 32 degrees during daytime, and approx 27-28 degrees during the night. The humidity is close to 100% which makes it difficult to breath. I find myself drinking alot of water, maybe 5 liters a day, even though I'm not thirsty. It feels really good when you drink it though. I guess I need it.

My fundings are running low, and I think the Yongala - dive will be the last one in Australia. Maybe I'll dive a couple of dives in Fiji, but I'll have to see what I can afford. Why does everything cost half my pants? Just the Yongala dive will cost me close to $200. Hope it's worth it.

I bought the Lonely Planet - LA today, and it seems most of LA is a scary place to be also (on top of Fiji). I think it's going to be great fun anyway. I don't have to wander around in the streets after sunset anyway.

I just heard 'Our house' on the radio here. I miss Steinan, among other things. I'll write as soon as I have the time & find a place with internet connection. I don't know when that will be. Maybe when I get to Fiji. Till then, xoxoxo
posted by Marius at 7:15 PM

Airlie Beach 18th April

Ok, this is my third attempt of writing an entry. I'm getting pissed off.

The "towns" I have been to lately have poor or no internet connection, which means I don't get to check and write mail to often. And when I do, it takes bloody ages to get it done. I try to answer most of the mail quick, but sometimes, it's just to much happening.

I arrived in Airlie Beach at 740am on the 19th of April after a 22 hour long bus ride from Byron Bay. Doesn't that sound like great fun? Belive me, my ass is still sore and my neck hurts from bumping around in old busses.

The reason I went to Airlie Beach was to go sailing the Whitsundays a group of beautiful islands on the great barrier reef. The boat I signed up with was "Tallarook II", and left the harbour at 8am. I was half way running down to the harbour and got rid of my big backpack in a locker, and only brought the small one out there.

The group was 21 persons from Norway, Canada, England, Holland, and Australia. We all got along great, but as the sailing went on small groups was formed. Some people was more quiet than others.. I spent most of the sailing together with Steve from England, Dave from Canada (whom both of them I shared the smallest cabin ever.) Emma from England, Corrine from Australia, and Margaret from Canada. Most of the people on board was around 21-24, but Corrine was 17, acting much more mature though. We had a great time, and Corrine and me spent the second night on the deck, looking at the stars, drinking Stanley - redwine among other things. It was great fun, and I really didn't want to say goodbye when she had to take the bus back to Byron Bay.

During the three days I had 3 dives, including one night dive which was awsome. I have "gained control" over my breathing, and I find my self using less air for every dive I do. Even on the nightdive when I was all excited all the time, I stayed down at 14m for 40 minutes, and came up with 70 bars on a regular tank. Great fun.

On the second dive I got a problem with equalizing when I went down, and I had to go up a little to ease the pressure. It felt ok when I went down again, but when I got to the surface I still felt pain when I tried to equalize. I feels better now a day later, but I think I'll wait a couple of days before I dive again, just in case it was a rupture in the ear. I think the whole thing was caused from sleeping on deck and I probably cought a little cold, blocking the nostils. It feels ok now.

On the secound day out there, we were supposed to go out to the outher barrier reef, but the waves was to big, and we had to return to the inner reef. The boat took the waves so hard, the front deck was below sea level several times, and people started to complain about water on the floor. I think we were better of on the inner reef..

Did I mention it was kickass fun?? Really, it was. I'll stay in Airlie Beach till tomorrow, and then head up to Townswill where I want to do some diving, and prepare for my Fiji trip. I just bought Lonely Planet - Fiji, and among all the strange things they care about down there is; Always were long pants and long sleeves. (I got none). Anything else is an insult to them. Likewise is it an insult to were a hat/cap and when ever you enter a house, sit in front of the door, with your leggs crossed and nock in it. Weird stuff. Another crazy thing is the constantly fightings between the goverment and some General in the army. Apperantly firebombs and shooting are not unlikely to be seen, but they leave tourists alone. At least that is what I have been told. I will have to read more about that some time.

I also plan to send home some shit from Cairns before I leave Australia. I got lots to do, and no time to do it. When it comes to bringing home gifts to familly and friends, they will be cheap and light, since the airfright is freaking high. Up to 0.5kg is $18, which is equal to almost 100NOK.

Yeap, the pub is waiting. There is not much else to do in the afternoon, but it is amazing how many you meet there, and how fun it is. I'll write more later, cheerz.
posted by Marius at 5:55 PM

Byron Bay 16th April.

The Blues Festival was absolutely stunning. Alot of great music and new impressions, but especially Ben Harper was great. Geir wasn't to impressed, and commented the performance as ok. I loved it.

The festival ended around 01am, and Geir, Anders and me walked the way back to town. We were all totally out of energy after some long hours at the festival, and decided to head back to our hostels. As I got back to my room, Ari, David and Jeremy was sitting drinking outside, together with some strange girl from Holland, which Ari had picked up. We had a really good time, telling jokes, guessing riddles and generally making fools out of each other. The best part was when David told the rest of us about how Ari came up with the genious idea during a slow part of the Ben Harper show. "Let's start a clap" - and put his hands together over his head. David used all his powers to show how Ari performed, It was great fun.

Another great part of the evening was when David talked to the girl on the balcony next door. We couldn't see her, but we heard her really good. "Hi, how are you?", and David responded, "Not to bad, how about you", and the conversation went on for 4-5 centences, when the girl asks, "How is mom". That totally cracked us up, as it shows she is talking to her parents in the phone. We all seriously thought she was talking to David.

Maybe I should tell you a little bit more about the guys. Ari is a typical ladies man, as Jeremy put it. He is Australian, but with some greek or something in the blood. He works as a personal trainer on Bondi beach in Sydney, and have been traveling most parts of Europe and Asia. A hilarious person which seldom takes anything serious. David is Australian, educated Electrical Engineer, but works as a programmer for IBM in Sydney. Jeremy is Australian, but originally came from somewhere else, maybe Colombia. I never got to ask him. He works as a lawyer in Sydney, and his mother packed his bags before he left for Byron, since he was working the whole night before they arrived here. They are all 26-27 years old, and typical always smiling and enjoying life. We had three - four fun nights together with drinking.

Todays thoughts
I tried to book a bus ride up to Airlie beach to get there the day before I go out on the boat, but since it *again* is Easter, everybody seems to be traveling on a bus somewhere. This makes my stay in Byron Bay another day longer than I had thought. I will be leaving Byron on the morning of the 18th, and be in Airlie Beach at 06am on the 19th. The boat leaves at 09am the same morning, which could make it a bit more stress than I appreciate, but that is the only option, if I don't want to stay at Roma street station in Brisbane for 5 hours in the middle of the night. I guess I'll just try to sleep on the bus, and pray that it does not brake down during the long ride up to Airlie.

I will spend the afternoon searching for a bookstore and trying to find the Lonely Planet - Fiji and - LA books. I have been adviced it could be frightning to arrive to any of these two places without booking accommodation ahead. I wouldn't like to be robbed or beaten the hell out of, on arrival. Of course I could use my leeth fighting skills, but I don't like harming the locals. well.

Random Thought of the moment:
When we were at the Blues Festival, waiting for Ben to start his show, some girl was tumbeling around in front of us, looking really lost. I started talking to her, and she couldn't find her friend. I talked to her just a couple of minutes, but I liked her. Of course she dissapeared in the crowd, and I never saw her again.. Until I was in the cue for food after the festival ended, when she suddenly was by my side smiling - Hi, thanks for comforting me when I couldn't find my friend. I found her, *presenting ourself*, and kept talking. I was almost drunk, *read between the lines*, and at some point I got really carried away with getting the food, and the next think I know; I got food in my hand, walking away from the foodcourt, and couldn't see her at all. I wonder how I fucked that up. Just a thought.

recommended cd - Cafe del Mar
posted by Marius at 3:36 PM