1.10 Fragleberget

1.11 Skuten

A new crag! This is a big cliff situated between Verma and Bjorli. Odd-Roar Wiik and Kyrre Østbø started bolting routes this spring. The potential for new routes is huge. The wall is about 100 meters high, west facing, and with a nice view toward Romsdalen. The lower part of the wall is around vertical, but above the wall gets very steep with many small roofs. It should be possible to climb hard routes in this area! Access: Drive up Romsdalen past Verma and the railway bridge crossing the road. Take left toward Brude and follow the road toward Sandgrovbotnen - keep right. 4,7 km from the E136 you'll see the wall above you on the right. It's a 10 minute walk. Two of the routes climb a great flake that's leaning against the main wall. To the right a grade 6, to the left a 6+ with a second pitch that's 7+/8-. To the left of the flake there is a 7- and a 6+. Chris Fossli and some other people did 6 new routes in 2003. Three routes are to the left and three to the right of the old routes. The routes to the left are graded around 6- and 6. The routes to the right should be 8-, 8 and 7+.

This crag has only a couple of routes and is not mentioned in the guide because of trouble with one of the landowners nearby. We mention it now because Sindre Sæther has climbed the most difficult sport climb in Romsdal here: Sydvestveien , 9/9+! Climbed in april 2004. The crag is on your left after the first railroad bridge after Åndalsnes. Park at Statnett a few hundred meters further up the valley.

Ch. 2 Norafjell

• Bjarte Bø did a new first pitch to Fata Morgana on the 22nd of April 2003. Start by a tree 40m directly below Fata Morgana. Climb left facing flakes and straight up to left slanting crack. Climb this. Grade 6.
• Sindre and Ole Johan Sæther did Påskenøtter , 7-, on the 19th of April 2003. Climb the left slanting crack to the left of Risset.
• On the same day Sindre and Ole Johan also did an exit variation to Via Grünero - above the first belay: the crack to the left and the overhang above. 45m and grade 6.
• Fata Morgana is a very hard 6+/7-, but still a good route.
• Lars-Erik Roald and Cato Fostervoll did Skjebneseilasen in 1999 on Storsvaet. Natural protection and the same start as Sirkeline. Continue straight up a thin crack at the first traverse. Grade 7+ and a bit scary.
• Bjarte did a 6+  variation to Sirkeline in 1999 - straight up a crack at the first belay. A natural and good line.
• Lars-Erik and Bjarte did Skjoldet on Storsvaet in 1999. Two pitches - the first one follows Future Games. Then straight up to an overhanging crack with one bolt - grade 8/A0.
• Bjarte and Odd-Roar Wiik did a new route on Storsvaet between Via Grünero and Sirkeline on the 20th of June 2001. Start up a corner to a big stone on a sloping ledge. From there up the wall to the bottom of the great crack to a belay(6). Continue up the crack (6-)and join Sirkeline to the top.

Ch. 3 Hornaksla

3.1 The Slab

• Boschveggen: Odd-Roar Wiik has replaced the old bolts on the routes right of Diederet (2000).
• Route 13, Fantomas, is 8+. This route was rebolted by Bjarte Bø in May 2002.

3.2 The Main Wall

• Odd-Roar Wiik and Patrik Fransson have replaced bolts and put up chains on the rappell route along Jugoslavruta (2000). Bjarte Bø and Odd-Roar have upgraded the rappell route at the right hand side of the First Ramp (2001). The last rappell is quite long, so you might have to stand on one of the large boulders on the ground if you have two 50 meter ropes. 
• Samantha has been free climbed - maybe already in 1987 by Arnstein Myskja and G.Wickham. Grade 6+. The cruxpitch is very nice, and not too bad when you climb the lefthand crack in the top. The second pitch of the direct start is a bit run-out.
• Chang has been free climbed by Bjarte and Lars-Erik Roald on the 10th. of May 1999. Two pitches. The first one, to the roof, is 6-, while the second one is 6+. Continuous climbing.
• Desserten is hardly more than 6 (after it was properly cleaned).
• A new four pitch route has been climbed between Gravrammer and Lava (the obvious line - ends up below Sataniske Vers. Tsavagattaq was climbed by Patrik, Kalle Grahn and Odd-Roar on the 14th. of May 1999. The grades are 6+, 6+, 5+, and 4+. The first pitch is a steep corner and the crux of the climb.
• Fredag den 13. was free climbed by Bjarte and Odd-Roar on the 21st. of May 1999. The grades are 6+, 6+, 6, and 5. The route is not exactly classic. Correction: an updated start can be downloaded here.
• Henki Flatlandsmo and Odd-Roar did Sort gull in June 1999. The route starts in the hanging dihedral left of Gravrammer. Continue up the wall to a ledge (6, 30m). Climb the left leaning dihedral, clip the bolt, go down and left and up to the left slanting crack which is followed to a big ledge (6+, 50m). Climb the left facing dihedral above and traverse right on a ramp. Climb a short, unprotected slab with a crack and go left under the overlap. Climb a left slanting crack above and then to the right across a slab to a belay with two bolts (6+, 40m). Climb straight up to a ramp leading to a dihedral. Climb this and traverse right across an unprotected slab to a crack. Climb under the big roof and then dihedrals to the First Ramp (6+, 50m). Good climbing, but the upper two pitches are a bit serious. Picture!
• Oscar Hovde and Lars-Erik have repeated Super Crack. Mostly free climbing, but with a couple of falls on two of the pitches. Estimated grade: 7+.
• Bjarte and Ole Haltvik did Mini Crack, a discontinuous crack system on the wall right of Super Crack on the 25th. of June 1999. Three pitches, grade 7-, 7-, and 6-. Great climbing, but the cruxes could have been better protected. Topo can be downloaded, and there is also a picture.
• Bjarte and Kyrre Østbø free climbed Vampyrjegeren on the 27th. of June 1999. Grade 6+. (6, 6+, 2, 5-, 6+, 6-, 6, and 6-)
• Bjarte and Ole climbed the chimney system above Kalle Kamin to the top of the wall on the 12th. of September 1999. This is Sjefsgrøfta (5, 6+, 5+, 7-/A0, and 3), maybe the greatest line at Hornaksla ;-). The crux is an overhanging corner with a large crack in the bottom - almost always wet.
• Portaledges at Hornaksla is a rather unusual sight - this being one of the best free climbing areas in the valley. But Iban Bessa, David Palmada, and Marc Sabata from Spain spent the 1st. to the 11th. of August 2000 making their way up Water Wall. The route starts with the old route Førsterampeinnsteget and from there goes more or less straight up to the top of the wall. Most of the climbing has been aid, and they have drilled an amazing amount of holes for bolts, rivets, and bathooks. Even the old route Førsterampeinnsteget, often soloed to reach the First Ramp, has been 'blessed' with some new bolts. The route is graded A5, but when did 15 meters of bathooking, mostly on a slab, turn into A5? Not on Hornaksla's solid gneiss anyway. This pitch could have been climbed free a little bit to the left, possibly with one point of aid to keep the grade moderate. Spanish climbers have always been welcomed to Romsdalen and have done many good routes here, but we don't need this kind of routes - totally breaking with the local ethics.
• Bjarte and Anne Grete Nebell did Nandrolon on the 29th. of September 2000. This is a line 10 meters to the right of Gravrammer, starting from the First Ramp. The route starts up through a small roof to cracks that end up on a ramp (20m, 5+). From there straight up the wall, first in a dihedral then the beautiful crack. The crack gets thinner towards the top. Belay in a small gully with loose rocks. A marvellous pitch. (40m, 7-). Traverse 10 meters left, then slant back right up the obvious corners and cracks. Belay under the long roof just below the Second Ramp (50m, 6+). The roof is climbed to the right. (20m, 5+).
• Bjarte did an exit variant to Dagen Derpå on the 9th of May 2002. Aspirin climbs a crack that ends on the second to last belay of Jugoslavruta. About 40m and grade 5+.

Ch. 4 Vengedal area

We have made some mistakes concerning Oskar Mork in the guide book.

• The West Ridge of Kvanndalstind was not climbed to the top on the trip mentioned in the guide.
• The North Wall of Romsdalshorn was first climbed in winter by  Trygve Bersås, Arne Næss (Molde), and Ole Simenstad in April 1952.
• In the list of climbs in the back of the book Oskar and Bjarne Ugelvik is credited with the first winter ascent of the South(-west) Wall of Romsdalshorn, which is not correct. This was done by Per Harvold and Åge Stavran in April 1952. We apoligize for the mistakes!

4.1 Vengetind

• Bjarte Bø did a new route on the south wall of Store Vengetind on the 4th. of July 1999. Menneskelig mulig (grade 5+) starts from the top of the West Ridge (on the topo). Traverse into the south wall on great gravel covered ledges. At a huge pinnacle, climb the cracks above. Then scramble rightwards to two parallell dihedrals slanting left. Go up here and continue in cracks and dihedrals above. A rockfall scar is climbed on the right before slanting right to a finish together with the South Face Route (I think). The line is shown on this photo. This is a good route for those who have some time to spare after climbing the West Ridge or any of the other routes ending at the same place. The south wall is steep and offers several pitches with continuous climbing.
• Ole Johan and Sindre Sæther climbed Praktpump free on the 5th. of August 2002. A good route with difficulties around grade 7. Sindre has made  an updated topo  for the route.
• Henki Flatlandsmo and Halvor Hagen did a mixroute on the north wall of Store Vengetind on the 13th of November 2002. 2 pitches (120m) and grade M4+. Approach as for the Normal route almost to the north ridge. The wall is then on your right. Start up a right facing dihedral with some ice down low, way over on the left side of the crag.
• Halvor and Andreas Haslestad climbed the East ridge of Store Vengetind in November 2002. This was probably the first winter ascent.

4.3 Romsdalshornet

• Iver Gjelstenli and Bjørn Magne Øverås did a new route on the east wall of Romsdalshorn on the 16th. of August 1999. Nyfiken gul starts from a ledge below and to the right of the Yellow Patch. Two short pitches slanting right (5+). Then easier more or less straight up to the top - six pitches all together. 

Ch. 5 Mongejura

• Four Germans have done a new route, Grand with Four , on Mongejura to the right of the South Pillar-route. It was climbed in a somewhat unusual style for Romsdal with at least one bolt on every belay. The route was climbed on the 6th and 7th of August 2003 by Axel Grusser, Jürgen Höfer, Paul Sass and Sebastian Wolf. 31 pitches of which 17 are of grade 4+ and under, 4 pitches around grade 5, 8 pitches around grade 6, and one each of grade 7- and 7. Topo will be published later.  
• Halvor Hagen and Odd-Roar Wiik did Markens Grøde on the pillar to the right of the south wall during 5 days in January 1999. The route is 10 pitches and graded 5/A2.

Ch. 6 Trolltindene

6.4 Trollryggen

6.5 Troll Wall

• In May 2003 there was a great rockfall from the area left of Död åt alla. The flake that came down was about 4000 squaremeters and several meters thick. I think Död åt alla might have been affected in the 10th, 11th and part of the 12th pitch, but it is difficult to be absolutely certain. There is a picture in the gallery .
• Rimmonruta was climbed for the first time since the rockfall in 98 during 4 days in February 2003. The climbers were Christophe Dumarest, Francois Dupety and Didier Jourdain. 7 new, serious pitches were climbed through the rockfall zone. The difficulties were estimated to be grade 6 and A2.
• Norskeruta was climbed for the first time in winter in February 2003. A french team spent 4 days on the wall after having put up 500 meters of fixed ropes. The climbers were Jean Francois Reffet, Aymeric Clouet and Arnaud Drouet. Two other french teams followed within a few days. Unfortunately several new bolts were discovered on the route this summer. There hasn't been many other teams up there lately so I wonder if this is an example of the ethics of the french 'national team'? I have tried to contact the french climbers without getting any response. Whoever did it - I think it's a disgrace and I strongly encourage the removal of all the bolts on this route. This is a very important route in Norwegian climbing history and it was climbed completely without bolts in 1965. That obviously proved too hard in 2003...
• Two swedes climbed Svenskeruta during three days in august 2002. Pitch 12 might have been altered by the rockfall in '98, and they found this pitch both loose and very difficult. NB! The route was climbed again in 2003 by a German team. They said the route was intact, all though the two pitches below Terassen were very dirty.
• There has been a rockfall in the upper part of Trollkjerringruta. Parts of the 19th. av 20th. pitch is gone. Two new (short) pitches were climbed in July 1999 by Bjarte Bø and Torkel Røisli to the right of the rockfall. These pitches were extremely loose and were partly aided (estimated grade C3 - without a hammer). Download an updated topo. The bolts that have been placed after the first ascent were removed on the lead (5 on the route and 1 on the intro slab). The route is hard and serious, but that is no excuse for placing new bolts! Have a look at some pictures from the climb.
• A Swedish team had a go at Raspberry Dream in the summer of 2000. The first 10 pitches were fine, but they thought there might have been a rockfall above this. After 1 pitch in this area (approx. 50 x 100m), they retreated because of lack of aid equipment. The bolts on the route appeared quite rusty. 
• A russian team from Siberia has climbed a new route on the Troll Wall! The Krasnoyarsk Route (February 03.-22., 2002, 25 pitches, grade A4+) has a separate start between the French and the Norwegian Route, and joins Arch Wall on its 18th. pitch. Apart from a variation in the 22. pitch, it follows Arch Wall to the 28th. pitch. From here they climbed Ed Drummond's dream finish to Arch Wall: straight up the wall, which gives steep climbing almost all the way to the top. The other routes in this area climbs easier pitches to the left and right. The climbers were: Vladimir Arhipov, Sergey Cherezov, Evgeny Dmitzienko, Oleg Khvostenko, Anton Pugovkine og Pavel Zakharov. Have a look at the topo!

6.6 Brudgommen

6.7 Store Trolltind

• Sindre Bø and Terje Ormseth Olsen did Pilar-Guri on Søstrene on the south-west face of Store Trolltind in 1999. 8 pitches and grade 4+. Approximate line is drawn on the picture.

6.9 Adelsfjell

• The route is drawn on the photo.

Ch. 7 Isterdalen

7.3 Dronninga

• A slightly updated line for The East Ridge.

Ch. 8 Isfjorden

8.1 Klauva

• Festivalruta was climbed in winter for the first time in winter on the 30th of November 2002 by Bjarte Bø and Anne Grete Nebell.

8.2 Juratind

• The Northeast Ridge was first climbed in winter by Alf Bækkelund and Arne Næss (Molde) in 1957.
• Iver Gjelstenli and Bjørn Magne Øverås climbed the South Wallon the 20th. of August 1999. Approach into the south wall on ledges from the east. Continue almost to the South Ridge. Climb 50 meter to the ridge, following a corner/chimney towards the end. From there a 30 meter pitch with easier climbing to the main summit. Grade 4+.
• Ole Johan and Sindre Sæther did Østveggen på Juratind in August 2002. 2 pitches - one of them being a 7+ crack! Check out the topo.

Ch. 9 Eresfjord

9.1 Goksøyra

• We have made an updated topo for Nastassja. The way we climbed it anyway...

Ch. 10 Other areas

Ch. 11 Iceclimbing

11.1 Romsdalen

• Bjarte Bø did a new 250 meters iceclimb at Skiri on the 6th of March 2004. The route climbs the left wall above the couloir with the great chockstone, to the left of Kvernagrova. Steep snow with some ice in the beginning. Then a thinly iced slab that steepens to a vertical section and then narrows to 1 meter. About 10 meters of mixed climbing to reach the top.It is called Vårfornemmelser and the grade is Is4+/M4. Exit down the couloir. Total elevation gain: 800 meters.
• Stephane Husson bolted a new mix climb in Purkhola in March 2003. The start is the same as for Skrælingen - but then the route goes out left to bolts and then onto some hanging ice (M6). The other new route the Petzl-team announced they had done happened to be good old Villpurka, one of the most climbed pillars in the valley.
• Henki Flatlandsmo did a new mixclimb in the beginning of March 2003 at Gravdehaug, to the right of Uten Teddy (below). It's called Klåfingret, and it's probably the hardest route of it's kind in Romsdalen - unfortunately it's been chipped. The grade is M8-. 4 bolts were placed on the first difficult part. Then you arrive on a ledge with easier climbing on ice to the top.
• Halvor Hagen did a new mixclimb, Uten Teddy, at Gravdehaug in the middle of January 2003. To the left of the great icewall the route climbs the wall past a few bolts. Through the roof at the obvious crack and onto the ice in the corner. The grade is somewhere around M7.
• Øyvind Moss and Carlos Wagner climbed Brudesløret to where the ice ended in 1998. An attempt to climb a last pitch to the top was aborted.
• At Nedre Gravdehaug Bjarte and Halvor did a three pitch ice climb on the 24th. of February 1999. It is located about 40 meters left of Dobermann and is called Rammstein. Usually plenty of ice in the upper part, but not much at the bottom. Two bolts near the ground. Grade Is6/6+, 5+, 5.
• At the Gamle Kyllingbru-area several lines have been climbed. On the upper wall the great icicles right of Rauma 2000 have been climbed by Bjarte. Start on rock to the right - grade Is5. Further to the right a short steep curtain has been climbed by Terje Ormseth Olsen. Grade Is5-. On the lower wall the main icefall has been climbed by Odd-Roar Wiik (Is4). He has also done an alternative exit to the right. To the left of this Bjarte has done Footloose, M6. Start up steep ice to a roof. Climb this to some yellow ice and a bush. On the other side of the river two new lines were done in March 2000. Bjarte did the right side of the obvious icefall, Slettahjellbekken, Is4, 20m. Torkel Røisli did a climb combining the two ice-smears to the right on the wall. Start up low angle ice towards an overhang. Climb the corner to the right to a ledge. Climb the smear to the right - then traverse left across the other smear and continue out of the wall on a ramp. Grade Is4+, 30m. To the right of Footloose, Henki Flatlandsmo did Tungtvann on the 4th of March 2002. Climb a little bit left of an icesmear that ends below a roof. Climb this past a bolt to an icecovered ramp. Grade M6+. Henki and Patrik Fransson did a new route on the 7th of March 2002 - above Det femte element, but on the other side of the river. I don't know the name or the grade.
• The 700 meter long iceclimb just left of Høljenesfossen was climbed on the 12th. of December 1999 by Bjarte and Halvor. Lille helvete, grade Is3+.
• The great couloir to the left of En gang var vi støtere was climbed by Ole Haltvik and Terje during christmas 1999. 4 pitches, grade Is4.
• Some new iceclimbs were done near Rødstøl in March 2000. Walk down along the river from the bridge to Brulia. Bjarte and Kyrre did 3 easy climbs in this area (grade Is3, 10 - 20m). There is also a pillar here that might have been climbed before (Is5, 25m).
• Odd-Roar and Frank Vik did two new iceclimbs across the road from the Troll Wall view point in March 2000. About 40 and 60 meters long and grade Is3 and Is4+.
• Ole climbed a new mixed route at Purkhola on the 19th. of March 2000. The route crosses through the great roof to the right of Halvor's routes - Wok, grade M7+.
• Halvor and Ole did a new iceclimb outside the tunnel near Veblungsnes in January 2001. The name is Gusj, 3 pitches (grade Is4+,6 and 4).
• Bjarte and Terje did a new route in the left hand fork of Rangågjelet on the 30th. of January 2001. The route is about 1100 meters long and follows the most natural line in this gully system. Mostly snow, but also 300 meters of iceclimbing - mostly low-angle. Pizzaisen, grade Is3.
• In Purkhola, Halvor climbed a crack to link the two variations to the easy ramp on the right. Grade is unknown.
• Bjarte and Ole did a new iceclimb in Rangågjelet on the 19th of January 2002. They climbed the obvious line between Julekalenderen and Rangåfossen. More or less straight up in a small gully (ice and snow), finishing through the head wall via the broad ice seen from the road. Miro, 7 pitches, grade Is4+ and 1050 meters of total height gain.
• Bjarte and Ole climbed a new route between Kvernasiget and Kvernagrova on the 1st. of February 2002. Kontroll på kontinentet is partly in a great, leftfacing dihedral. It starts high on the wall, and there is no ice on the first pitches. We approached from the right and climbed a mixed pitch near the ridge before rappelling onto a ledge beneath the icefall. From there we climbed another mixed pitch to reach the ice. Several possibilities in the top - we climbed the rightmost line. Grade Is5+/M5+ (M4, M5+, Is5+, Is3+, M2, Is3+, Is5). Total height gain: 800 meters. Descent: rappell from trees to the right.

11.4 Eresfjord/Eikesdalen

• Henki Flatlandsmo and Bjørn Magne Øverås did a new ice-climb in Eresfjord on the 7th. of March 2001. This climb is located above Frisvoll, about 30 minutes from the road. Omnen is 4 pitches long - starting with a pillar in front of a cave. Then two moderate pitches before a somewhat steeper pitch at the top. Descent: rappell trees to the north.

11.5 Other areas

• Henki Flatlandsmo and Tor Solholm did a new ice and mixed climb on the wall to the right of Sjølåa, between Åndalsnes and Innfjorden. They started out with 150 meters of grade 2/3 climbing. Then 5 pitches graded M4, Is4+, Is3, Is4 and Is5. The route is called Aktiv sykemelding.
• Bjørn Bergsvik and Kristian Flovikholm did Rødvenisen in 1996. This is the obvious ice-line in the north wall of the Rødven-peninsula. Two pitches of about 70 degrees ice. Approach: about 1,5 km from Bakken - then rappell down to the beginning of the climb.

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